U.S. and Us
Textile Art from New Zealand and America 16 April - 1 June 1997
Organised by the Otago Embroiderers' Guild this touring exhibition of 20 contemporary
works displays how embroidery arts in both the United States and New Zealand have
developed over the past 30 years. Reflecting many of the styles and trends seen in
contemporary painting these recent works by internationally recognised embroiderers or
textile artists illustrate how contemporary embroidery has developed a wit and a bite
sometimes unexpected in such a medium.
Embroidery is a very ancient art form and one which, in many cultures, has played a
significant role in the rituals of church, state and society. Once it was an essential
skill for the `marriageable ladies' of prosperous families. It has also borne the scorn of
being dismissed as one of the frivolous, repetitive and less useful crafts.
Today however, as U.S.and Us demonstrates, embroidery is claiming a place among the
significant textile arts. Barbara Lee Smith, a well-known American embroiderer who has
taught and exhibited in the United States, Britain and New Zealand, is the curator of this
touring exhibition. She was asked to select 10 works from the States and 10 from New
Zealand. Lee Smith explains that for this selection she was looking for compatibility and
for examples which reflected the range of current American approaches. As a result the
works she chose were all conceived and executed with a vigour and expertise we may not
normally associate with the art.
Of the New Zealand selection, which includes the work of the Christchurch embroiderer
Marianne Hargreaves, the curator said she selected works which,'engaged my heart and mind,
that seemed new and fresh and were lively expressions of the best of New Zealand
embroidery'
Engaging, witty and sharp many of these works tell personal stories related to the
lives of the women artists. They also display their wide range of styles, materials,
stitches and techniques and the fascinating deployment of thread and needle in
non-traditional ways. U.S. and Us also illustrates a freedom in the approach to materials
with the artists refusing, like many contemporary painters, to be labelled or categorised.
'When you embroider' a leading American textile artist Maria-Theresa Fernandes says,'you
have the contrasts of surface textures and you can take the work so much further'
U.S. and Us is brought to the McDougall with the assistance of Air New Zealand,
Creative New Zealand and Bernina New Zealand Ltd.
A special programme is running in conjunction with U.S.and Us . On Sunday 18
May at 11 am Margery Blackman, the honorory Curator of Ethnographical
Textiles from Otago Museum, will speak at the Gallery on 'Embellishments
in Thread. Examples of fine embroidery through the ages and across
several cultures.'
This exhibition was held at the Robert McDougall Art Gallery in the Botanic Gardens.
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